Cookbook Review: In Bibi's Kitchen
In Bibi’s Kitchen, out today, is a cookbook unlike any other. You won’t find in it the hottest food trends or recipes with mile-long ingredient lists. You won’t be introduced to a team of classically-trained chefs working out of a commercial kitchen in a major city. Instead, you’ll be invited into the kitchens of bibis (grandmothers), born and raised in countries along Africa’s eastern coast. Some have managed to stay in their native lands, some have relocated, but all have one thing in common: they each carry with them the recipes of home.
Written by Hawa Hassan with Julia Turshen, In Bibi’s Kitchen focuses on the cuisines of eight African countries that all touch the Indian Ocean: Eritrea, Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, South Africa, Madagascar, and Comoros - specifically chosen for their rich histories and the vital role that each plays in the spice trade. But this isn’t your average recipe book, in fact, though the recipes are numerous, what this book is really about is sharing stories: stories of struggle, stories of food, stories of family. Some women featured witnessed war, had to flee their countries, and made steep sacrifices, but what they always kept with them were the recipes passed down to them. And by writing down these recipes in a shareable way, they are ensuring that these time-honored food traditions continue for generations to come.
What makes this cookbook so special is that it amplifies the voices of African women who would not have otherwise been heard. Recipes, it can be argued, are not just pieces of paper with lists and directions, they serve as historical documents. What they call for, how they are written, and the medium in which they are recorded can sometimes tell you more about a time period, a place, a movement, even the author themselves, than any other book on a shelf. The recipes in this book weren’t created to be sold, they’re family traditions in the form of food, carefully tinkered with for decades with the intent to feed, nourish, and comfort. Some family recipes unfortunately die with older populations because they were never written down. What Hassan and Turshen have been able to do, and not just for us, the readers, is to gift the interviewees and their families with a way to keep those cherished recipes alive and existent in a place other than in someone’s mind. It’s what makes this book so unique, and at the same time, universally relatable.
The Good: What I love the most about this book (besides the absolutely GORGEOUS photography) is just how much thought was put into every aspect of it, from the layout (the chapters are organized by country location from north to south), to the thorough yet concise profiles of each country. There are also so many recipes to choose from, from traditional beverages, to homemade bread, and everything in between.
The Bad: My experience so far with this book has been overwhelmingly positive. The recipes I’ve tried so far have been successful, and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed reading about the lives of so many powerful women. The only complaint that I have, and it’s a small one, is that at the end of many of the recipes, when outlining how long food will stay fresh or how long to keep it in the oven to reheat it, time is measured in “a few minutes” or “a few days.“ It’s hard to know how long “a few” is, so it’s best to use your own instincts when it comes to leftovers.
Bottom Line: I’ve said it before and it bears repeating: this book is truly special. When I first got it, I found myself quickly bookmarking recipes that I wanted to try, which is always a good sign. For some, this book will serve as a tie to a homeland they left too soon, for others, it will be a delicious and attainable introduction to new cultures through cuisine. Either way, In Bibi’s Kitchen is a book that belongs in well, everyone’s kitchen, for generations to come.
Get In Bibi’s Kitchen by Hawa Hassan and Julia Turshen HERE.
*I’ve received a free copy from Ten Speed Press in exchange for a free and unbiased review.