Cookbook Review: Dessert Person
Claire Saffitz rose to fame in 2017 as the host of the hit Youtube series, Gourmet Makes, where the audience watched in awe as she took beloved junk foods like Oreos, Cheez-Its, and Twinkies and attempted to recreate them from scratch by the end of the video. Fans may have come for the weekly challenge (always more complicated than the last) but stayed for Saffitz’s thoughtful, creative energy and regular banter with fellow BA Test Kitchen personality, Brad Leone. Three years later, Saffitz is ready to cement her status as a household name in the food world, but this time, it’s with her debut book, Dessert Person, in stores now.
I’ve been following Claire Saffitz since 2013 when I first got a subscription to Bon Appetit Magazine. Her recipes were always sophisticated, unique, and, most importantly, approachable which made me, a new baker hungry for the next challenge, eager to take on any recipe that she developed. When I caught a glimpse on her personal Instagram feed a few months ago of the types of recipes to be expected in her upcoming book, I knew that this one, above all the other phenomenal books that have made their way into the world this season, would be one that I 100% wanted on my shelf.
What I’ve noticed about cookbooks written by recipe developers, especially those who work for magazines or other food media outlets, is that there is always more mindfulness when it comes to the abilities and resources of the average home chef. Time, budget, and experience are taken into account more, and no details, even the minor ones, are left unprinted. Saffitz’s Dessert Person is no exception to this observation. In fact, she makes it a point to ensure every aspect of the recipe is accounted for, from the way the final product should look and feel, to the time, special equipment, and skill level strongly suggested for each project. Dessert Person, with its in-depth, step-by-step visual guides, beautiful photography (shot by former BA staff photographer, Alex Lau), and breath-of-fresh-air approach to confectionery classics both new and old, is by far one of the best books of 2020.
The Good: In true Saffitz style, Dessert Person is a book full of recipes that will introduce you to, but not overwhelm you with, new ingredients and flavor combinations. All of the recipes feature ingredients and equipment lists that can be easily fulfilled locally and are fancy without breaking the bank. I also love that at the top of every recipe, in addition to the total time it will take, Saffitz has included a rating system from 1-5 indicating the recipe’s difficulty level, often with an explanation as to why a certain recipe was rated the way it was. That’s a helpful feature not often seen in cookbooks.
The Bad: So far, the only thing I don’t like about Dessert Person is the amount of page-flipping the reader has to do to make sure they have all the ingredients needed to even begin the recipe they want to try. For example, the Meyer Lemon Tart on page 104 calls for only four ingredients, but two out of the four ingredients, the Meyer Lemon Curd and Sweet Tart Dough, are located on different pages and have their own ingredient lists and directions. It makes sense to outline the recipes in the book this way since the Sweet Tart Dough is featured multiple times and needs to be centrally-located so that recipes aren’t long and repetitive, but it’s still a pain to have to flip all over the book just to get everything I need to make one pie.
Bottom Line: Longtime readers of Bon Appetit might be greeted with some familiar faces like Babkallah, but Saffitz has done an amazing job of crafting a book full of new and exciting recipes with attention-grabbing photographs to match. There is no doubt in my mind that this book will be an instant bestseller, and a sweet reference guide for bakers worldwide.
Recipes of note (so far):
Kabocha Turmeric Tea Cake
Spiced Persimmon Cake
Cinnamon Sugar Palmiers
Gateau Basque
Cranberry-Pomegranate Mousse Pie
Pistachio Pinwheels
Buy Dessert Person by Claire Saffitz HERE!
*I’ve received a free copy from Clarkson Potter in exchange for a free and unbiased review.